Pattern machine



March 11, 1952 M c 2,589,105-

PATTERN MACHINE Filed MarchJ15, .1948 3 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. Q I) A12 1 o a Name cH/ March 11, 1952 D. MAIOCCHI PATTERN MACHINE Filed March15. 1948 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. MHIOCCHI DAR/0 Ill \Ill March 11,1952 MAIOCCHI 2,589,105

PATTERN MACHINE Filed March 15. 1948 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. DHRIOM010 CCH/ IITTORNE Y- Patented Mar. 11, 1952 PATTERN MACHINE DarioMaiocchi, Los Angeles, Calif.

Application March 15, 1948, Serial No. 15,030

Claims.

This invention relates to a geometrical and drafting instrument,particularly useful for the layout of patterns and templets. It isparticularly useful in the layout of templets and patterns from a mastertemplet and pattern for the purpose of introducing variations in sizeand dimension into the templet or pattern.

It is frequently necessary in the cutting of sheet material to befabricated into various shapes, to lay out upon'a sheet of material anoutline of the shape to be cut from the sheet material for fabrication,to act as a pattern or template. Such practice is followed in sheetmetal work for the fabrication of various shapes. It is common prac ticein the garment industry for the cutting out of garments from textiles.

It is frequently necessary in such arts to fabricate various sizes ofthe same general design. Thus, for example, in the garment industry itis common practice in laying out a line of garments to draw a masterpattern for what is termed the ideal size. It is then the practice toderive patterns of various sizes from this ideal size pattern byconstructing patterns which bear certain size relations to the idealpattern. This has been accomplished previously by geometric constructionemploying the master pattern as a base and deriving therefrom bygeometric layout a subsidiary pattern which differs from the mas-. terpattern by the dimensions necessary to establish the various sizes. Thisis called grading in the garment industry.

It is an object of my invention to devise an instrument which willaccomplish this result without the necessity of establishing thegeometric construction previously referred to. From this point of view,my instrument may be termed a drafting instrument in that it is possibleby using the same to construct the subsidiary size patterns by using themaster pattern as a base directly upon a sheet material which is to becut into the subsidiary pattern or templet.

It is an object of my invention to construct an instrument which willemploy the master pattern as the drafting guide and to permit theadjustment of the pattern with respect to a sheet upon which thesudsidiary size pattern is to be constructed in such manner that thepattern may be moved in a controlled manner and determinable degree overthe sheet to draft directly from the ideal pattern the subsidiarypatterns for the subsidiary sizes. I

I accomplish this purpose by constructing an instrument in such fashionthat it will receive the ideal pattern, which has been constructed fromsome sheet material having sufficient rigidity for the purpose, over asheet of material which will receive the subsidiary pattern, draftedthereon from the master pattern. The instrument contains means forholding this master pattern in spaced relation to the sheet of paperupon which thesubsidiary pattern is drawn, and means for moving themaster pattern with respect to the sheet in various directions andparticularly by means independently movable in two mutuallyperpendicular directions parallel to the base with means for indicatingand controlling the degree of motion in these two perpendiculardirections so as to move the pattern in any direction to the designdesired.

These and other objects of my invention will appear more clearly fromthe following description when taken together with the drawings, inwhich Fig. l is a plan view of my invention showing in fragmentary formthe relationship of the master pattern and pattern-receiving sheetmounted with respect to the instrument;

Fig. 2 is a section taken on the line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a section taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of one detail of my invention;

Fig. 5 is an illustrative drawing showing the relationship of asubsidiary to a master pattern;

Fig. 6 is a schematic drawing of the application of my invention to thedevelopment of the subsidiary of the master pattern; and

Fig, 7 is a detail of Fig. 6.

The instrument has a base I upon which is mounted a bracket 2 carrying abearing 3 and a scale plate 4 graduated in inches and fractions of aninch. Plate 5, running substantially the length of the base I, has anedge 6 which overhangs the longitudinal edge 1 of the base I. Thebracket 8 mounted at the other end of the base I carries a bearing 9.The plate 5 is thus slidably mounted upon the base I between thebrackets 2 and 8 with its ends suitably spaced therefrom.

Mounted on the plate 5 is a bracket Ill under which the ruled plate 4may pass. On the top of the bracket I0 and running in a directionperpendicular to the axis of plate 4 is a plate H which is screwed tothe top of the bracket I0 and carries a scale l2 graduated similarly toplate 4. Each scale carries inches and fractions of an inch on bothsides of a zero marking. Mounted inside the bracket [0 and upon theplate 5 is a rack 12', A guide bar [3 abuts the side of l2.

Mounted upon the other end of the plate is another bracket shown at [4under which is mounted, upon plate 5, a rack I5 and a guide bar I6abutting rack I5.

A magnifying glass I1 is mounted upon a bent arm I8 which is mounted ona bracket I9 positioned in the plate 5. A shaft carrying a knob 20a isjournalled in bearings 3 and 9 and extends longitudinally of the plate5, passes through a bore in the bracket I9, and carries a pinion 2|which is in mesh with the rack I2 and the face of which abuts the guidebar I3. The shaft also carries a pinion 22 which is in mesh with therack I5. The face of the pinion abuts the guide bar I5.

Positioned on the shaft 20 intermediate the racks and pinions previouslyreferred to is a sleeve 23 carrying collars 24 and 25 mounted upon theshaft 20 by means of set screws 26 and 21. The sleeve 23 carries a rack21. Mounted upon the base I is a bracket 28 through the top of whichpasses a spindle 29 suitably journalled in hearings in the top of thebracket 28 and at 3I on the base I. The spindle 29 carries a knurledknob 32 and a pinion 33 which is in mesh with the rack 21.

Mounted underneath the bracket 28 and surrounding the sleeve 23 is asplit block 34 which is mounted in the base I by means of a screw 35.The split block 34 envelopes the sleeve 23 but stops short of the rack21. Mounted in the top of the bracket 28 is a screw 36 having a knurledknob 31 abutting a spring 38 mounted upon bracket 28. The end of thescrew bears against the block 34 to cause it to grip the sleeve 23 whenthe screw is screwed down.

Formed in the plate 5 is a plurality of transverse grooves, shown asfour in the drawing at 39, 40, M, and 42. The grooves extend across theplate 5 in a direction perpendicular to the axis of shaft 20. Into thesegrooves may be set arms of various lengths such as those shown at 43 and44. Each of these arms is of a width and thickness to fit into thegrooves and to form a coplanar surface with the top of the plate 5 whenthe arms are positioned in the grooves. Each of the arms is downwardlybent, as shown at Me, so that the underneath side of the arm shown at 45is substantially coplanar with the underneath side of base I so thatwhen base I is placed on a table, the arms will bear on the table withsufficient clearance to move over the surface of the table. As shown inthe drawings each of the arms at the ends thereof carries pins 41. Thearms are flat so that the paper pattern supported on them is not raisedto any material degree above the paper on "which the graded pattern isto be drawn. The pins are small and cause little distortion of the paperpattern.

Mounted on the plate 5 over the grooves and the arms 44 are clamps 48which fit over screw threaded pins 49 mounted in plate 5 and encompass aspring 5!! which abuts the plate 5 and the underneath side of clamp 48.A knurled screw 5| is threaded on the pin 49 and abuts the top of theclamp 48. One edge 52 of the clamp presses against the plate. It willthus be seen that each of the arms 43 and 44 extends beyond the base Iand plate 5 and each may be adjusted longitudinally of the grooves inplate 5 independently of each other.

The rotation of the knob 20a mounted upon the shaft 20 will move theplate 5 and the racks I5 and I2 in a direction perpendicular to the axisof the shaft 20 and perpendicular to the edge 6 stantially a circle oran ellipse.

of the plate 5 and parallel to the axis of the carrier arms 43 and 44,while the rotation of the knob 32 will move the plate 5 in a directionparallel to the axis of shaft 20 and the edge 6 and perpendicular to theaxis of the carrier arms 43 and 44. These motions are madeindependently. The scales 4 and I2 provide means for measuring thedegree of each of such mutually independent and mutually perpendicularmotions with respect to the base I.

The application of this instrument to the grading of garment patternswill illustrate one of its preferred utilities although, as has beenexplained above and as will be understood by those skilled in this art,the application is merely by way of illustration, and other uses, as forexample, the increasing or decreasing of the dimensions of templets, mayalso be accomplished by this instrument.

In order to illustrate its utility for the grading of garment patternsreference may be had to Fig. 5 to show how a pattern is altered. In Fig.5 this is illustrated by means of a graphical representation of a methodfor increasing the size of a sleeve pattern from an ideal patterndesign.

As shown in Fig. 6 in dotted line, a sleeve pattern consists of atrapezoid the ends of which are the development of an ellipse at oneend, that is, the end which fits into the shoulder arm hole, and theother end the development of sub- In order to increase the size of thepattern, the ideal pattern is divided into panels, illustrated at A, B,C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, and K. The line 0 is drawn to intersect thepoints of inflection of the developed curve and the lines M and O aredrawn from these points of intersection parallel to the longitudinaledges of the pattern. Lines L and N are drawn parallel to the lines Mand O at about the midpoint between said points of inflection and theoutside longitudinal edges of the pattern. Line P is drawn about midwayof the longitudinal edges. There is thus formed panels A to K,inclusive. Thus, for example, if the pattern is to be increased to thenext size panel, A is separated from panel B by panel C is separatedfrom panel B by 1%", and panels H, I, D, and E are each separated fromthe adjoining panels B and C by and the panels F, G, J, and K areseparated from their adjoining panels D, E, H, and I, respectively, by

With my instrument it is possible to cause this expansion of the patternwithout cutting it into panels either mechanically or graphically. Toaccomplish this the instrument is mounted upon a drafting board adjacenta sheet of paper shown at 54 and a pattern 55 which is to be graded ismounted upon arms 43 and 44 on their pins 41. As illustrated in Fig. 1two such arms are employed but if the pattern is larger so that itencompasses the grooves 39 and 42, additional arms may be inserted inthe grooves and the pattern also mounted on the pins 41 of such arms.The arms are then adjusted laterally in their corresponding grooves toadjust the axis, for example, QQ of the pattern shown in Fig. 1, Fig. 5,and Fig. 6, so that the axis QQ is parallel to the edge 6 of the plate5. The pattern is thus mounted on the arms with the plane of the patternsubstantially parallel to the plane of the base I and plate 5. The knobsmay then be screwed down to clamp the arms in position. The knobs 20aand 32 are adjusted until the 0 points on the scales I 2 and 4 are atintersection. This is therefore the position of the pattern over thepaper 54. By screwing down the-knob 31 the brake or split block 34 gripsthe sleeve 21 to hold the plate in position with respect to the shaft20. It is not necessary, although if it is desired it may be done, tooutline the 0 position of the pattern.

As shown in Fig. 6, this 0 position is shown in dotted line. If thebrake is tight, by slightly releasing the grip of the brake 34 byrotating the knob 31, knob 32 may be rotated in order to move plate 5and the pattern mounted upon the arms to the right, as illustrated inFig. 6, A,". The movement may be read on scale 4. When it is moved tothis position, by screwing down 3! split blocks or brake 34 may lockplate 5 in position at this point. It is not necessary to screw thebrake down to locking position. Enough friction to prevent accidentaldisplacement is all that will be needed. The outer edge of the pattern(at panel A, Fig. 5) between the points of inflection of the outerdeveloped curve may then be drawn as outlined by the ideal pattern. Thisis shown in full line between R-R' on Fig. 6. The pattern is thenshifted downward by rotating the knob 20a clockwise until the plate 5has been shifted as read upon the scale l2. The pattern is then shiftedbackward (i. e., to the left, Fig. 6) by counterclockwise rotation ofthe knob 32 for a distance of 1%" which is read on scale 4. The patternis then outlined from R to S and S to S.

In the next step, by rotation of the knobs 32 and 20a, the instrument isset back to O; in other words, the O of the scale l2 and the scaledintersect. The pattern is then moved to the right (Fig. 6) by rotationof the knob 32 in clockwise direction until the plate 5 has been moved4;" to the right as marked on scale 4. It is then moved in a directionperpendicular to the axis of 20 by rotation of the knob 20a in acounterclockwise direction to move the pattern in a directionperpendicular to the axis of 20 for A as read on scale 4. The knob 32 isthen rotated in a counterclockwise direction to move the patternbackward, i. e., to the left (Fig. 6), 1 s" as read on scale 4. Theoutline of the pattern between the points R to T and T to T is thendrawn. The instrument is again brought to O by rotating the knobs 20aand .32 until the zero points on the scales l2 and 4 intersect. Then bycounterclockwise rotation of the knob 32 the plate 5 is moved to theleft A" (see Fig. 6). The line S and T is then drawn as outlined by theideal pattern.

There is thus developed a graded pattern which differs in size from themaster pattern by the expansion shown in Fig. 5.

It will be understood that sizes smaller than the ideal pattern and alsodifierent larger patterns may thus be constructed to obtain gradedpatterns which difier from the master pattern according to acceptedgrading standards for patterns of different size based on a given idealpattern. Wherever used in this application, the term two mutuallyperpendicular directions shall mean and include any direction vectorresolvable into two mutually perpendicular directions.

While I have described a particular embodiment of my invention for thepurpose of illustration, it should be understood that variousmodifications and adaptations thereof may be made within the spirit ofthe invention as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A pattern grading instrument for marking a pattern on a sheet ofpaper adapted to receive the said pattern marking, comprising a base,means mounted on said base for holding and supporting the body of asheet of paper in the form of a pattern in extended position over andadjacent the said sheet of paper, means for moving said pattern holdingand supporting means in any desired direction over said sheet in a planeparallel to the plane of the base, and graduated means for measuring thedegree of said motion in two mutually perpendicular directions withrespect to the base.

2. A pattern grading instrument for marking a pattern on a sheet ofpaper adapted to receive the said pattern marking, comprising a base,means mounted on said base for holding and supporting the body of asheet of paper in the form of a pattern in extended position over andadjacent the said sheet of paper, means for independently moving saidpattern holding means in two mutually perpendicular directions over saidsheet and with respect to said base, and graduated means mounted on saidbase for measuring the degree of movement in each of said mutuallyperpendicular directions.

3. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a plate movablymounted on said base, means mounted on said base for moving said platein two mutually perpendicular directions in respect to said base, armsextending beyond said base and beyond said plate, means for adjustablymounting said arms on said plate, and means for mounting a pattern inthe form of sheet material on said arms and vfor supporting the body ofsaid pattern.

4. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a plate movablymounted on said base, means mounted on said base for moving said platein two mutually perpendicular directions in respect to said base, armsextending beyond said base and beyond said plate means on said arms forholding and supporting the body of a flexible pattern, means foradjustably mounting said arms on said plate, and means mounted on saidbase for measuring the degree of motion in each of said directions, andmeans for mounting a pattern in the form of sheet material on said arms.

5. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a plate movablymounted on said base, means mounted on said base for moving said platein two mutually perpendicular directions in respect to said base, armsextending beyond said base and beyond said plate, means for adjustablymounting said arms on said plate in a direction parallel to one of saidmutually perpendicular directions, and means for mounting and supportinga pattern in the form of sheet material on said arms.

6. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a plate movablymounted on said base, means mounted on said base for moving said platein two mutually perpendicular directions in respect to said base, meansmounted on said base for measuring the degree of motion in each of saiddirections, arms extending beyond said plate, means for adjustablymounting said arms on said plate in a direction parallel to one of saidmutually perpendicular directions, and means for mounting and supportingthe body of a pattern in the form of sheet material on said arms.

7. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a shaft rotatablymounted on said base, a plate slidably mounted on said base underneathsaid shaft, a rack mounted on said plate perpendicular to the axis ofsaid shaft, a pinion mounted on said shaft in mesh with said rack, arack mounted on said shaft, a second shaft rotatably mounted on saidbase, the axis of said second shaft being substantially perpendicular tothe axis of said first shaft, a second pinion mounted on said secondshaft in mesh with the rack mounted on said first shaft, groovespositioned in said plate and extending in a direction substantiallyperpendicular to said first shaft, arms positioned in grooves andextending beyond the edge of said plate and independently adjustable insaid grooves longitudinally thereof, and means on said arms forpositioning sheet material with its plane substantially parallel to saidbase.

8. A pattern grading instrument, comprising a base, a shaft rotatablymounted on said base, a plate slidably mounted on said base underneathsaid shaft, a rack mounted on said plate, perpendicular to the axis ofsaid shaft, a pinion mounted on said shaft in mesh withsaid rack, a rackmounted on said shaft, a second shaft rotatably mounted on said base,the axis of said second shaft being substantially perpendicularto theaxis of said first shaft, a second pinion mounted on said second shaftin mesh with the rack mounted on said first shaft, arms adjustablymounted on said plate and extending beyond the edge of said plate andmeans for independently adjusting the extension of said arms beyond theedge of said plate, and means on said arms for positioning sheetmaterial with its plane substantially parallel to said base.

9. A pattern grading instrument for markin a pattern on a sheet of paperor other markable material adapted to receive said pattern markings,comprising a base, a plate movable on said base in all directions in aplane parallel to said base, means mounted on said base for moving saidplate in any of said directions, arms extending beyond said base andbeyond said plate, means for adjustably mounting said arms on saidplate, and means for mounting a pattern in the form of sheet material onsaid arms and for supporting the body of said pattern.

10. A pattern grading instrument for marking a pattern on a sheetadapted to receive said pattern markings, comprising a base, a platemovable on said base in all directions in a plane parallel to said base,means mounted on said base for moving said plate in any of saiddirections, arms extending beyond said base and beyond said plate, meansfor adjustably mounting said arms on said plate, means for mounting apattern in the form of sheet material on said arms and for supportingthe body of said pattern, and means mounted on said base for measuringthe degree of said motion in each of two mutually perpendiculardirections.

DARIO MAIOCCHI.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 466,758 Schultz Jan. 5, 1892469,775 Cote Mar. 1, 1892 902,584 I-Iuebner Nov. 3, 1908 1,000,221 WilmsAug. 8, 1911 1,081,759 Marchese Dec. 16, 1913 1,139,984 Leethem May 18,1915 1,382,271 Cunningham June 21, 1921 1,579,702 Gottschalk Apr. 6,1926 1,615,668 Anderson Jan. 25, 1927 2,000,520 Jones May 7, 19352,091,262 Aster Aug. 31, 1937 2,399,610 West May 22, 1942 2,403,633Browning July 9, 1946

